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Written by Robert L.

Published: 22 October 2009

by Robert Landrum

 

In April of 2006, while wheeling in Moab, my front OX locker stopped functioning correctly. This is not the first time this has happened. It would frequently flake out, and stubbornly refuse to lock, even with the shifter in the locked position. I'd heard from several sources that there was a post on JeepsUnlimited.com that outlined how to convert from a cable actuated OX Locker, to an Air Cylinder actuated system.

Despite several searches, I was unable to turn up the post in question. A few months past, and the Jeep sat unused. Until about 2 months ago, when John Borg mentioned that I hadn't been wheeling for awhile, and I mentioned that the jeep was in a minor state of disrepair, casually mentioning my frustration with the OX. He managed to dig up the JU post that outlined the changes. I later received it from Wayne Lau as well.

The premise is simple. Remove the cable, install a small air powered actuator into the OX cover, and connect it to an air switch. The post contained part numbers, which I'll reproduce here, but lacked photos, which would have made my installation much easier.

Parts List

Part	Quantity Per Axle	Source	P/N	Cost
Cylinder,Air,1 1/16 In	1	Grainger	6W073	$20.00
Valve,Solenoid,1/8 In	1	Grainger	6JJ52	$27.90
Brass Hose Barb,1/4 In	5	Grainger	4A496	$0.81
Brass Hose Barb,1/4 In (90 degree)	1	Grainger	4A491	$3.50
1/4 In ID Rubber Air Host	25 ft	Home Depot	--	$20.00
Host Clamps (Very Small)	6	Home Depot	--	$0.75
14 Gauge Wire	25 ft	Home Depot	--	$9.00
Toggle Switch	1	Radio Shack	--	$2.99
12 Volt LED	1	12voltguy.com	--	$6.99
Aluminum Crush Washer 3/4 ID	5	pegasusautoracing.com	3278-08	$6.49

The original JU post suggests using a Allen Cap Head screw, 2 inches long, 28 tpi, which was impossible to find in Warrenton. I bought mine from allensfasteners.com. As it turns out, I didn't need it for my install. It also mentioned using small copper crush washers between the air cylinder and the OX cover. I wasn't able to locate any of these in the sizes needed (larger than 5/8th inch inner diameter). I purchased some Aluminum ones online that were 3/4 inch ID, and those worked fine, but were rather thick.

I also used some crimp connectors, and thread tape, which I assume you already have if your tackling this sort of job. And of course, I also assume that you have some sort of on-booard-air system. Installation of such a system is well beyond the scope of this write up.

 

Once I had collected everything I'd need, I got started by laying everything out

Now I began by installing the air cylinder into the OX cover. I began with 3 crush washers, as this positioned the exhaust port of the air cylinder in the vertical position when fully tightened.

Unfortunately this pushed the fork away from the inner edge of the housing where it needs to rest.

It should be resting here.

I needed to cut off a few threads. This can be done with a hacksaw or a dremel. I used a big cut off wheel.

I rounded over the end with a file, just to clean off any burrs.

As you can see, the fork now rests against the inner wall. The throw on the air cylinder is 1 inch, which is more than it needs to engage the OX, so cutting of a little bit too much isn't a problem. I removed about 4 threads worth.

At this point, I threaded in the fittings. I didn't tighten down the air cylinder the final half turn needed until after the fittings were in, because the fittings interfere with the OX cover. You can see here that the 90 degree fitting is resting against the cover, and will prevent it from turning any further.

The next step is to install the cover onto the axle. Don't forget to use hose clamps. While the 1/4 inch ID tubing fits snugly over the fittings, 150 PSI is a lot of pressure.

The hose connected to the end of the air cylinder is the main supply line. The host connected to the other fitting is the exhaust port, and isn't connected to anything, but is needed to vent air as the cylinder moves. You could technically not run a hose, but then dirt, mud, and sand would make their way into the hole and ruin the air cylinder. I ran both lines up into the engine bay, following the axle vent tube.

I routed them around the air box and connected the exhaust line to the radiator support. I ran the main supply line over the radiator support to the passenger side, where I mounted the solenoid valve air switch.

I next connected the air cylinder supply line to the clearly marked "Out" port on the solenoid valve. I connected the "In" port to my main on-board-air supply. I connected a hose to the exhaust port, marked "Exh", and ran that up to the firewall. It's there just to keep dirt from fouling the solenoid, since it's only used to vent excess pressure from the air cylinder supply line when the solenoid is inactive. If it didn't do this, the OX would never disengage.

From here, I ran a wire inside to the toggle switch, and from the toggle switch to a LED light, then to ground. I connected the other wire to the positive terminal on the battery. When the switch is on, the LED light is on, and the OX is engaged.

How Does It Work

In my garage tests... Perfectly. The air cylinder is far more reliable than the cable. Every time I flip the switch, the OX engages. If I turn it off, it disengages. Things I could really only hope for when I used the cable and shifter.

 

 

 

 

Last Updated: 30 January 2017

Details

Written by Anon. OCC Member

Published: 12 November 2009

Wheeling and wrenching put all of us at high risk for contracting tetanus. Everyone should get a tetanus shot every five years. Tetanus injections go in the upper arm. Too many TV shows depict TD being given in the tush, for the entertainment value. Tetanus shots are inexpensive and can be had at any of theFairfax County Health Department Branches.

http://www.fairfaxcounty.gov/hd/hdclinicsite.htm

Last Updated: 30 January 2017

Details

Written by Jason Colston

Published: 12 November 2009

While a CB install is not difficult, trucks like the Cherokee do not give you a lot of options in antenna mounts. This mount is very simple and easy. First thing is to remove the rear light fixture. Very simple, only three bolts are holding this one on. While we were at it we removed the rear panel as well, snaking the CB cable behind it.

Next is to pull the CB cable through the seal. This was tough, so we cut the seal just a little, then turned it inside-out to pull the large cable end through. Took some pulling, but once it was through, it looked great. Much better than cutting through the side of it.

We then ran the cable up through the panelling. This was very easy, just a few screws and the panels popped right out. 18 feet of cable was the perfect length to reach the front dash.

Next, re-attach the light fixture, leaving about 3" of cable sticking out. The cable fits nicely between the fixture & body, there was a gap there to begin with.

Next step is to mount the Antenna. This was a very simple mount which we dipped in that black tool-dipping stuff to make it look good. Herculining it would be another option if you don't like chrome.

For now the CB is wedged between the passenger seat and the console. Later it will probably be mounted to the side of the console, near the shifter.

Last piece is the wiring. In the 2000 Cherokee the fuse box is just inside the door frame on the passenger's side. To keep things simple we used an Add-a-Fuse unit. Just pull out any fuse from the panel, stick it into the Add-a-Fuse with a second fuse of the same wattage. Then plug in the unit where you pulled out the fuse. The original fuse is still in place, while giving power to the second as well. I suggest connecting it to your radio fuse, so anytime you can use the radio, you can use the CB as well.

Below is the fuse box. We mounted the ground wire behind the bolt attaching the dash to the frame, and you can see where the Add-a-Fuse is plugged into the fuse box.

Any questions or comments, you can email This email address is being protected from spambots. You need JavaScript enabled to view it.

Last Updated: 30 January 2017

Details

Written by Super User

Published: 09 December 2009

Project TJ Gear Box

 Goal:

To construct a simple and secure box fitted to the rear area of a 99 stock TJ- sans rear seat, for the containment of trail gear. The following pre-shop considerations were part of the construction specifications:

• inexpensive build
• simple construction with use of limited resources
• lightweight for one person handling
• easily slides into place, and out again as needed
• not require any modification to the vehicle, only the removal of the rear seat (so that it may be returned for additional passengers)
• lockable with no exposure of fastener heads at the hinges
• "trail & travel rated"
• able to support additional overtop-weight
• have D-shackles to secure additional cargo/gear
• lighted
• incorporate an exterior map rack within arm’s reach of the driver

 The Build:

(Note that this article will not show you hot to build a gear box.  You will however, realize various considerations and ideas)

The build process began with the need. A desire derived from organization skills and knowledge that loose items in the cab must be secured for safety and property-loss protection reasons. Other factors that initiated the project included dissatisfaction with use of consumer and after-market products (particularly concern with the available storage size and shape of these products versus available vehicle cargo space) and a very low budget to work with.

With an idea modeling into feasibility, the first steps were gathering required materials and planning the construction of the box- considering resources and the box construction itself. A conctact within OCC lead to acquiring mostly 2"x4"s from a scrap pile at a local construction site.

The attack plan was to build the box “in real time” rather than develop shop drawings. This method is feasible, but not often best. The TJ was backed up into the workshop space and cleaned out in preparation of measurements.

 

Spatial measurements to determine the maximum limitations of the box were first. The frame construction was started. Shortly there-after, it was realized that not all aspects of the stock TJ had been taken into account. This included the rear gate Nader pin, tie downs on the floor, the reclining angle of the front seats, and plastic cover pieces extending the overall depth of the rear gate door.

   

Remedial measurements and re-tooling of the frame accommodated these discoveries with minimal inconvenience.

Once the initial frame limitations were figured out; construction moved to the sawhorses for convenience. The frame joints were fastened with coated decking screws (for resistance to moisture and chemicals) and metal plates held in place with flat head roofing nails. Once the frame is set-up, a choice of cover material must be decided. Plywood, being very durable, is also heavy. Plexi-glass and Lexan, although providing a cool see-through effect, is cost-prohibitive and allows criminal eyes to see what valuable gear is inside. Other plastics would be too flimsy and not impact resistant. A cheap and light weight choice to consider is wall paneling. The kind you would find in the living room of an old house. At roughly $10.00 for a 4’x8’ panel, I found this to be the best option. It had already been pre-determined prior to purchase that cutting two panels in half would provide enough pieces of large enough size to accomplish the project; and be transportable with a small pick-up truck.

Based soley on preference, I applied the paneling reversed so that the groves and faux wood color would face inside the box.

 

Not highly skilled in carpentry, each panel piece was cut custom to the side it would cover, as the frame was not square. Each one was glued in place with low-VOC PL375 Heavy Duty Construction Adhesive. The adhesive takes several hours to fully cure. Additionally, each side was permanently tacked into place with small finishing brads. I used an available large galvanized nail to punch each brad below flush of the surface. You can barely see this in the pictures below.

   

   

In accordance with the considerations for construction specifications I had developed, a light was to be incorporated to help see at night. Initially, it was thought to wire in an aftermarket cargo lamp with an un-pluggable connection. However, it came to mind that an already owned, water resistant battery operated Sylvania LED tap-light could be used as the ideal solution. The back plate of the light was removed and brad-nailed to a small block of 2”x4” cut with a reverse-inclined angle. This positioned the light puck to shine into the middle of the box at mid depth where gear would most likely be grabbed from.   A bonus idea while purchasing hardware at Home Depot spurred the addition of rubber “feet” to bottom corners of the box.  Foam-rubber matting (stuff that holds rugs in place on the floor) was adhered in place on the bottom inside of the box to help reduce gear from sliding around and spilling any automotive fluids that may be packed inside.

   

 

(Note last two pictures were taken later on in the build)

The rubber feet were nailed through the dimpled middle and corners into the frame joints; providing ¼” of air space underneath.

 

"J" hanger hooks were screwed into place inside the box to hang items such as jumper cables. To this point, the box is fairly lightweight enough to move once in awhile, but heavy enough to remain in place in the Jeep.

Again, with considerations in mind, four miniature D-ring shackles were mounted mid-height on the opposite outside faces of the box to secure cargo on-top of the box. These were screwed into the framework also.

Hinges were also expedited into place without consideration of the depth of the lid. These had to be relocated and the painting touched-up. It is suggested to consider the hinges carefully if security of the gear is a significant concern. Use deep screws with a square-type driver. Make them inaccessable, or fill the grooved heads with putty.

   

You will also note from the pictures that brown spray paint was applied to the exterior; however, it was not the best choice. “It only does the trick.” Even where the manufacture label sticker was at showed through the paint.

The final and trickiest step of the construction was the lid. I had scratched my mind for a long time as to how the lid should operate in the best interest of grabbing gear from the box with the TJ’s hardtop on and the hardtop off. On, would require entry via the rear gate/glass area and a longitudely hinged lid (like a car hood). Off would allow for lateral access but require the lid to open bi-laterally split (butterfly-like the really old pre-fifties era truck hoods) for ease. Using a butterfly lid design would require more hardware and a support beam bisecting the container. This would limit the size of gear that could be placed into the box. The one-piece lid design was chosen.

The lid was secured in place using a 2”x4” cut in half lengthways- because the thin paneling was not thick enough for the screws. The 2”x2” at each end will also help prevent any cargo on top the box from sliding off.

A door mat was adhered to the lid surface also for effect and to protect the lid surface.

Regarding the lid placement, like the side covers, it was side trimmed with a jig-saw for a smooth but not perfect finish. It as least holds gear! Overall, the lid is not of the best construction methods and can be greatly improved.

Finally the box was tested to fit. Not perfect, but it fit. It was discovered that the seat belt brackets, purposely left in place require the box to be raised an additional ¼” for stability. This in turn, limits the lid from opening wide with the hardtop on the TJ- because of the interior rear glass wiper motor cowl.

Not so much concerned about fit, a handy place to locate maps and other items was the final feature. Rather than spend more time on wood construction, I searched high and low for plastic door “inboxes”. Amazingly, I could only find one of these at an office supply store for $32.00. I purchased a wire mesh box at an unreasonable but better cost. This was applied to the box with short screws and washers.

   

Upon adding the new “map rack” it was found to interfere with the overall fit of the box because of it’s large depth: and likely to eventually tear into the back of the seats. The box as you see it in the pictures above is the current completed stage. At this point, is a little too overweight to easily move. 

Post-Build Conclusions & Suggestions:

The overall project was not a failure, nor a complete success. It will be used for other applications as it’s too solid to reshape without extreme hassle. The overall fit is not ideal for use in a stock 1999 TJ sport; by mere inches.

Practically, the height needs to be lowered approximately 2”, and the unit raised by a ¼” to clear the cargo floor seat belt brackets. Instead of a wire mesh basket to hold maps, a slimmer wood assembly could be added. Thicker wood could be used for the lid and include the elimination of the homemade 2”x2” pieces. The location of the tiedown brackets in the TJ floor are also a tiny but largely annoying consideration. Finally, a better equipped shop and knowledge of woodworking would produce a finer quality of craftsmanship; but again- functionality trumps form.

If you are attempting a similar project, the following suggestions may help:

• research what others have done
• develop drawings or plans to work from
• take careful measurements and note the details of what you are working with
• consider having someone else review your plans as a second set of eyes
• measure twice cut once and check your measurements to the vehicle before cutting
• get all your materials at once to save trips. Figure out what quantities you will need ahead of time.
• use quality materials
• askf or help from someone if they have better carpentry skills than you

 Hopefully the write-up here will present you with ideas and thoughts/considerations to aid you if you decide to do something similar.  Plans to redesign and attempt a improved constructed box are on the table currently and a follow-up article will be presented.

Last Updated: 30 January 2017